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Whenever compiling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate renowned award-winning establishments. Yet, tucked prominently among these food titans is a modest salonu found in a distant part of north London.

An Unexpected Recognition

This compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. This accolade has made the family completely surprised.

“I am completely surprised,” states a family member, alluding to his family’s dedication that culminated in their small place earning such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has maintained much of its former charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the cuisine, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy quality.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in less syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

The Creed of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I feel truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate beyond its own doors. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this culinary achievement.